Ultimate travel guide for Laos
After having visited many countries, Laos is undoubtedly one of my favorites and most pleasant surprises. It has the perfect combination of tourists, remote places, landscapes and cities to explore.
For all nature lovers, it is a destination that you will not be able to finish, countless waterfalls, national parks, viewpoints and towns to explore.
Everything you need to know for your trip to Laos:
- Best time of the year to visit Laos
- Basic tips to visit Laos
- 3 Week route around Laos
- Daily budget for Laos
- Where to stay in Laos
Official exchange rate 1EUR = 16.500 kip
Best time of the year to visit Laos
We return to the usual in South East Asia, Laos has two seasons, the dry and the wet.
Dry season: November to April, little rain and higher temperatures, can be quite suffocating and extremely hot.
Wet season: May to October, coinciding with the European summer. Even being the rainy season, these are characterized by being short but intense, you can find some day of only rain, but in three weeks in Laos this was never the case. Although it rained almost 80% of the days, it was either at night or for a while in the morning.
For me, the rainy season is still the best option for an inland country.
Basic tips to visit Laos
- Borders: If you cross the border on foot you will need to have a few dollars on hand to give to the customs agents so they can stamp you. It is a bribe that you will hardly be able to avoid if you cross from Cambodia or Vietnam. The somewhat busier border with Thailand in the north may be the exception.
- Visas: Most countries can get a visa on arrival valid for a single entry and with a duration of 30 days.
- ATM: They are not usually found outside the big cities, with big cities I mean cities with more than 50,000 inhabitants. Most of them are either broken or have no money, so always carry cash with you if you are going to be several days without going to a city. They usually charge a commission of 20,000 kip (€1.2)
- Transportation: Relatively efficient and with various frequencies you will be able to move between the cities near the main routes. However, the poor condition of its roads and the constant stops of the buses will take you a long time when moving between one place and another.
- North vs South: The north of Laos tends to be more crowded while the south of Vientiane has fewer travelers, still that was my favorite part of the trip.
- Security: If you rent a motorcycle, always park in car parks and lock them to prevent theft.
3 Week itinerary around Laos
I never thought that three weeks would be short for me in a country like Laos that I practically knew nothing about. If you come from Thailand or Vietnam you will go from north to south and vice versa if you cross from Cambodia. If you fly to Vientiane you will be halfway along the route that I am going to propose.
This route runs from south to north to the border with Thailand.
Days 1 and 2: Si Phan Don (4.000 Islands)
It is a small enclave of islands in the Mekong very close to the border with Cambodia. Don Det and Don Som are the main islands where you can find accommodation. Most of them do not appear in booking and are walk-ins.
In Si Phan Don there are countless things to do and places to visit, but personally I think that in a couple of days you have the main thing covered although I met people who spent almost a month there.
I recommend, especially in the dry season, that you return to the mainland and rent a bike for $1 a day and head to the Khonephapheng waterfalls. They are the widest waterfalls in the world with 12km in length. Although in the rainy season the flow of the river is too high and its spectacular nature is diminished.
Several of the islands are connected to each other by bridges, so if you stay on Don Det you can cross to Don Khon by bicycle. In Don Khon you can visit the Li Phi waterfalls, the historic Don Det bridge, the French railway, several suspension bridges in poor condition and countless waterfalls.
Don Det was a hippie enclave before the pandemic and although it is being reborn when I was there it was very unemployed, despite that there are many bars and restaurants where you can go to eat and have a drink. Tena’s restaurant is the cheapest, you can eat for 20,000 – 30,000 kip and for a drink either at Sabai Sabai or Reggae Bar.
Days 3 to 5: Pakse and Pakse Loop
South East Asia is becoming increasingly popular for its bike loops, circular motorcycle circuits that you can usually cover between two and four days. In Pakse there is a loop of about 250 km characterized by spectacular waterfalls and traditional villages.
It can be covered in 2 days perfectly.
To get from Si Phan Don to Pakse, you must take either a mini van from Nakasong, they usually leave at 11am or a local bus every hour or so when it is full. The price difference is minimum 130,000 kip for the mini van vs 100,000 for the bus, both including the ferry between the islands and Nakasong.
For the loop you must rent scooters, I recommend you go to Miss Noy. With almost 8 years in the sector, this eccentric Belgian will give you all the details and safety tips, what and how to visit and where to stay during the loop.
The first day I recommend that you leave early as there is much to see and kilometers to cover. Almost 100 kilometers separate you between Pakse and the Captain Hook homestay, just 5 minutes north of Thateng. However, before arriving you must make a mandatory stop at these three waterfalls, Tad Fane, Tad Champee and Tad Yuang.
The first of them is the most spectacular but also the one that you will see from farther away, you can enjoy it from the sky with a heart-stopping zipline that crosses the valley 250 m away and more than 200 m down. His four ziplines on the tour are well worth the $30.
Captain Hook homestay is very rudimentary and basic, but perfect for those who want to know the local life, the tradition of the town and its customs first hand. You will help the ladies cook a delicious dinner and taste the local coffee first hand. Many travelers end up in this place every day with whom to share adventures and continue traveling together.
On the second day more waterfalls, nature and suspension bridges await you. The next stops are Tad Lo village, Tad Hang, Tad Low and Tad Soung waterfalls, all of them free. Back to Pakse, about 100 km await you, through small villages and narrow roads full of cows, dogs and people who roam freely.
You can continue north or spend one more day in Pakse. Pakse does not have much else to visit but I recommend that you keep the motorcycle for one more day and on your third day in the region you go to Champasak where you can visit Wat Phou. A pre-Angkorian temple that, despite not being in excellent condition, will give you a first impression of what you can find at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Both on the way out and on the way back stop to see the golden buddha at Wat Phousalao and above all cross the Mekong by raising your motorcycle on top of a small boat. Keep your balance and don’t fall into the water!
Days 6 to 8: Thakhekh Loop
Undoubtedly better than Pakse, although the views and much more spectacular roads are very different. You will visit mountain passes, viewpoints and spectacular caves throughout these three days that the loop lasts.
To get to Thakhekh from Pakse you can take a night bus at 8:30 pm that arrives in Pakse at 1-2 in the morning, perfect to meet other travelers, you must notify your guesthouse that you are late so they can prepare your otherwise you will end up sleeping on the street.
This loop is longer than the Pakse loop, it consists of 400 kilometers in total and I recommend that you start the days early to avoid ending up driving at night, which happened to us in 2 of the 3 days of the loop. By early I mean 9 in the morning.
There are a couple of shops where you can rent scooters near the main hostels. My recommentation is Mixay, you can rent a semi-automatic motorcycle for 90,000 kip, any problem or delay you can contact them by whatsapp, they waited for us for more than an hour because we were late driving at night.
Thakhek a Nam Theun: Primer dia consta de unos 100 kilometros, verás que el paisaje cambia rapidamente una vez abandonas Thakhek.
I recommend that you stop at Tham Nang Aen cave just 30km from the start. Keep driving and head to Pha Katai viewpoint. Some dilapidated and old stairs will take you to the top of a viewpoint, it is not easy to find it since you will have to enter an abandoned water park. Once there, climb to the top to see one of the best views of southern Laos.
There are a couple of restaurants and cafes near the viewpoint where you can eat and continue your journey towards the mountains, at this point the best part of the journey begins through 20 kilometers of winding roads that will take you to Sabaidee Guesthouse. The busiest guesthouse in the area, with an impressive sunset on a very sinister lake and where almost every night the owners make a bonfire where all the travelers gather.
Thakhek a Kong Lor: No es el tramo mas largo pero si que el viaje se puede hacer un poco tedioso si no empiezas temprano. Es quizás el dia mas completo.
After getting up in Nam Theun a few kilometers away you will find some sculptures on the rocks along a couple of curves, nothing to write home about but it is worth stopping for five minutes. Your next stop should be Dragon Cave, the cave is very rudimentary and not at all touristy, they will give you a flashlight and you will have to venture into the cave by yourself. Once finished, go up to its viewpoint, with a bit of luck it will not have rained and you will be able to climb without slipping. I recommend that you wear good shoes.
Finally, to close the day, head to the Cool Springs of Na Pavan. When I say cold it means cold, we met some locals and we were eating and drinking with them and to cool the beers they left them in the natural pools that were at a temperature of 7 or 8 degrees. Perfect to end the day and start your final leg towards Kong Lor, if you are too late you can stay in Ban Nakham.
Kong Lor back to Thakhek: The most impressive cave I’ve seen in my life without a doubt. Start the day early as the visit to the cave takes a couple or three hours.
Kong Lor Cave is an underground river that extends through a night river of more than 7 kilometers in length. You will go two by two on long tails and flashlights through the cave. On the way back you can stop at The Rock viewpoint or even if you want to extend your stay you can do a whole day of ziplining in one of the most impressive settings in southern Laos.
Day 9: Vientiane
To get to Vientiane from Thakhek you can take a night bus that takes about 8 hours and leaves at 1 or 2 in the morning.
Vientiane is the capital and the largest city of Laos with 500,000 inhabitants. Honestly, it doesn’t have much to see or do, we visited a couple of temples and monuments and little else. You should not miss Wat Sisaket, Presidential Palace and Patuxay Monument, an impressive arc de triomphe.
Days 10 to 13: Vang Vieng
Without a doubt, the main backpacking destination in Laos. The atmosphere of the city is like no other in all of Laos, very laid back, lots to do and lots of young people. Night life and daytime activities.
To get to Vang Vieng from Vientian you can go by mini van which takes about two and a half hours and costs 150,000 with pick up at your hostel or you can go by high speed train although it will take the same time and cost more money.
For daytime: There are countless viewpoints but only one that you should not miss. The Nam Xay viewpoint is a climb of about 40 minutes, relatively well adapted. At its top there are two motorcycles and a booth with spectacular views. Better even than Thakhek loop =).
Another place you shouldn’t miss is the natural pools, there are a total of 6 but the best are 2 and 6. If you’re short on time, prioritize these two. If you still feel like being in the water, don’t miss the Tipsy Tubbing, if you haven’t heard of it, it’s about going down the river, in a float with drinks, where you will make a couple of stops to continue the party and come back to the river.
For nightlife: There is no other place in Laos with as much nightlife as Vang Vieng. There are several cafes with “Happy Menus”, interpret what you want. Normally the night starts at Full Moon Bar, continues at the Irish Pub and ends at Sakura or Viva Pub.
Days 14 to 16: Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang is the cultural capital of Laos. UNESCO cultural heritage, it is an exceptionally preserved colonial-style city. To get to Luang Prabang it is best to take the train as it takes only 90 minutes and costs the same as the bus which takes 5 hours. Its price is about 120,000 kip.
At night, the largest night market in Laos fills the main artery of the city. You can eat all kinds of street food, stroll through the stalls, buy souvenirs or local products.
Apart from the night market, like any city in Asia, it has countless temples that you can visit. Among them, Wat May Souvannapoumaran, Wat Sensoukharam but above all Wat Phousi located on Phousi Hill. The latter is nothing to write home about but its location at the top of the hill will give you a totally different perspective of the city.
The best sunset in the city, however, is not found in Phousi Hill but in all the restaurants that are found on the shore in the east of the Mekong. For just 60,000 kip you can enjoy a cold Beerlao with a main course. If you want to treat yourself to western food I recommend Popolo, for many the best pizza in Laos, I loved it.
However, there is life beyond Luang Prabang and it is just 45 minutes away from the Kuang Si waterfalls and the Tat Kuang Bear rescue center where they care for endangered bears. The Kuang Si waterfalls are in my top of favorite places since you can not only admire them but bathe in their various pools along 4 or 5 different levels.
Days 17 and 18: Nong Khiaw
Like Si Phan Don, Nong Khiaw was once a mandatory stop for all backpackers crossing between Vietnam and Laos.
There is plenty of accommodation on offer in Nong Khiaw. The best thing is that you go personally and choose directly where to stay. In Q-Bar a bar run by a former Buddhist monk will give you all the necessary advice, it is also the bar where most travelers go.
Nong Khiaw is well worth a couple of days as it has many caves and viewpoints that you can visit. If you are one of those who like to get up early to see viewpoints then you should not miss Pha Daeng, if the day wakes up without rain, very likely when you reach the top (1h approx) you will see a sea of clouds between the peaks of the mountains that surround. If you don’t like getting up early you can go for the sunset and it’s also spectacular.
Pha Kuang is perhaps the only cave that has given me anxiety lately, since to reach the end of it you will have to crawl through narrow tunnels up to 30 centimeters wide. As a good claustrophobic I did not reached the end hehehehe…
Days 19 and 20: Slow boat to Thailand
If you go from Laos to Thailand or vice versa, you cannot miss the slow boat that sails from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai. It costs about €20 to change.
Over two days you will go up or down the Mekong through a slow boat, stopping at various towns along the river to pick up or drop off merchandise. It is one of the best transportation experiences I have ever had. The landscapes and the relaxed rhythm through the river are the perfect farewell to this unknown country.
You will spend about 7 or 8 hours each day on the boat although you will sleep in Pakbeng and you will arrive at the border with Thailand at 5 pm the next day. Be careful as the boat between Luang Prabang and Huai Xai does not run every day of the week.
Daily budget for backpacking Laos
Laos is without a doubt the cheapest country I’ve been to, you can go out at night, do activities but it will still give you the feeling that you don’t spend money. In almost three weeks I spent an average of €22 a day touring the entire country.
The food in Laos is not very varied, you will practically only eat soups or rice or fried noodles with meat or shrimp. The daily average with some more luxurious meals (pizza, pasta, hamburgers) is €5 per day.
As for accommodation, practically all accommodation includes breakfast and you can find hostels in the largest cities for €4 and even private rooms in the smaller cities. Part of this saving will be achieved by taking night buses between your destinations.
Keep in mind that the transport infrastructure in Laos is not good, so night buses should be part of your day-to-day when you get around. Although don’t worry because it’s not expensive, the average is about €6 a day, longer trips will cost you €10 or €12 and shorter ones between €5 and €6.
Finally, in both night and daytime leisure, around €8. The night life is very cheap and all the tourist attractions usually cost around 10,000 kip which would be around 50 euro cents.
Where to stay in Laos
- Si Phan Don (Don Det) // Mama Tamon Guesthouse: Extremely cheap 50,000 kip per night for a private room with a fan, that is if in two nights I killed three cockroaches in the bathroom…
- Pakse // Sanga Guesthouse: The best hostel in Laos without a doubt, cheap, clean and extremely comfortable, the beds have curtains and a lot of privacy and Luang the manager will help you with everything you need. They will also give you unlimited free cookies =)
- Thakhekh // Naga Hostel: Basic, but clean and cheap located in the city center and only 2 minutes walk from shops where you can rent motorcycles. He made it easy for us to check in at 2am.
- Vientiane // Barn Laos Hostel: The most social hostel in Vientiane, very large common area, kitchen, breakfast included and rooms, although small and narrow, very clean as well as bathrooms.
- Rock Backpackers // Vang Vieng: It is a party hostel, it is not very clean, nor are the rooms the best, but it is the most social hostel in the city and they organize tipsy tubbing several times a week for everyone to interact.
- Downtown Backpackers 2 // Luang Prabang: Remember that it is number 2, in number 1 there is no one. Huge and quite clean hostel, with many travelers. The common area is a bit small but very social and only a 5 minute walk to the night market.
- Vongmany Guesthouse // Nong Khiaw: Rudimentary but cheap and comfortable.
